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Saddle-Fitting: Much More Than 9 Points to Perfection! |
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by Joanna Robson, DVM, CVSMT, CMP, VA, SFT |
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Articles on saddle-fitting are somewhat frequently published in horse magazines, both in print, or online. The articles are usually combined with a bulleted checklist (9-points, 11-points, and so on) to see if your saddle fits. However, the most important ingredient to a successful riding recipe is that the rider understands WHY the saddle should fit that way, and what often happens if it doesn't fit correctly. |
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I was recently at a tack shop and overheard the ladies next to me trying to find a new saddle. The first gal sat in quite a few expensive models until she found one that was comfortable for her, and the friend helping her looked it over and |
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Figure 1: Computerized tracing of scapula. White fill denotes cartilage cap. |
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proclaimed that the tree
should fit the horse just fine, "after all, it's a medium-wide." No longer able to contain myself, I asked what kind of horse they were trying to fit, and had they thought about at least doing tracings to bring to the store before making such an expensive purchase. These were kind people that only wanted the best for their horse in their new riding adventure, but buying a saddle before fitting it properly to the horse is like buying a bikini for your friend without taking her to the store to try it on! |
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Understanding some basic equine anatomy goes a LONG way in understanding why the saddle must fit correctly for your horse to perform pain free and maximally. The horse's shoulder must be allowed a complete range of motion to extend the trot, cut cows, or jump fences. The scapula, or shoulder blade, is actually topped with cartilage. Why is this important? A saddle that pinches in this area can actually shear off the delicate cartilage that allows the shoulder blade to glide beneath the muscles that overlay it. The effects of pinching saddles are now documented with advanced imaging, such as MRI and CT scan. A saddle that fits parallel to the shoulders doesn't allow passage of the shoulder blade once girthed up. There should be some space at the top of the panel to allow for proper range of motion of the scapula. |
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Figure 2A and B: Pictures denote scapula tracing. Red line shows back of shoulder at weight-bearing, green line shows back of shoulder at early extension. Note range of motion. |
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The saddle tree is designed to provide a frame for the saddle itself, but also to provide support for the curvatures of the rider's spine, and a platform of communication with the horse through the rider's seat and weight. Store-stocked saddles are often marked with different tree widths (narrow, medium, wide, extra wide, combinations of these) but did you know that saddle trees also have an angle? The angle of the tree corresponds to the angles of the shoulders, and the width of the tree correlates to the width of the shoulder muscle. Two saddles may be labeled as "wide tree" but have two completely different angles! You may have a horse with high withers who needs a narrow angle to clear the top of the withers, but a very wide tree to clear the width of the shoulder blades and muscles. Differences in individual anatomy are why fitting a saddle to the horse is so important! One size does not fit all, but we have been taught this way, and manufacturers are able to mass produce their saddles under these categories. |
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Firgure 3: The horse is this picture looks to be very long-backed, but in reality has a very small saddle-carrying surface, as denoted in red. |
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Some signs that your horse may have saddle-fit problems, and secondary
back pain:
• White hairs under saddle area
• Bites or acts out when saddled or girthed
• Anxious when mounted, won't stand still
• Bucks/kicks under saddle
• Bolts
• Chips or rushes jumps
• Trouble with leads/lead changes
• Improper muscle development - no topline
• Stiff to warmup/cold-backed
• Trouble with collection or lateral work
• Much more...
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Figure 4: Red triangle is trapezius muscle. Shaded area is a danger zone
for saddle pressure. |
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There is a thin muscle called the trapezius that originates on the spine of the shoulder blade (you can feel this on your horse with your index finger) and extends forward up the neck, and back behind the withers. The function of this muscle is to elevate the scapula and hold it to the body wall. Horses that are trying to pull their shoulders down and away from a pinching saddle may often have atrophy in this area. Look around, and you will see horses that have a visible dip in front of their withers. |
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Next, there is a nerve that exits directly from this trapezius muscle behind the withers. This nerve is cranial nerve 11, also called the Accessory Nerve. Poke or squeeze your horse in the shaded area a few times and witness his reaction. His head comes up, his back dips, his tail swishes, his muscle twitches, and he may even turn to bite you. Now imagine you have a saddle that crushes this |
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Figure 5: Arrow points to 'stress line'
across shoulder.
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area every time you ride. Does your horse pin his ears or get upset when you approach him in the crossties with your saddle? He's
trying to tell you that he hurts. Some horses with chronic shoulder pinch will also develop a more obvious line across the shoulder. This line is where the cutaneous trunci muscle will flicker if a fly lands on your horse. When you pinched behind the shoulder, did you notice the muscle flicker? With constant stimulation, a distinct line or groove may become visible.
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The channel of the saddle should be wide enough that it doesn't rest on the transverse processes of the vertebrae, or on the paraspinal ligaments. Pressure here can cause fluid buildup in the tissues, much like a water blister, although the fluid has nowhere to exit. This rubbing is also equivalent to you wearing a pair of shoes that fits too tightly. You know that rub sore you get on the back of your ankle? A tight saddle does the same to your horse. A saddle should have at least 3 fingers' channel clearance all the way from front to |
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Figure 6: The saddle above has only ONE INCH clearance from front to back. Not enough to clear any thoracic vertebrae. |
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back, and in the case of today's big warmbloods or broad Quarterhorses, most horses need 5-6 fingers' width. |
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Though Western saddles are often much wider through the channel, their fault is that they are frequently too long. Their excessive length, and frequently hard skirt leather, puts undue pressure on the horse's lumbar spine and croup. And the added weight of these saddles maximizes their pinching effect if they don't fit correctly through the shoulders. An English saddle should not extend past the 18 th vertebrae. Horses have 18 ribs, so you can |
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Figure 7: This western saddle is too long for this short-backed horse, and it also sits on top of the horse's shoulders. |
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trace the last rib to the spine to find your rear border. |
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A common error is to place your saddle too far forward! Even a saddle that doesn't fit perfectly is a little better placed behind the shoulders where it belongs. Place the saddle up on the withers, then slide it back into position until it "locks into place." Look to see if there is enough room at the top of the saddle to allow the shoulder-blade to rotate backwards without bumping into the tree. And remember, a saddle that fits only needs a thin wither-relief/contoured pad. Saddle pads for saddles that don't fit are only a band-aid. They merely change the pressure points temporarily, until new areas become sore. Remember, if your shoes are too tight, wearing thicker socks won't fix the blisters! |
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Finally, there's no better way to ensure proper saddle fit than to have your horse with you when trying saddles, and to enlist the help of a certified professional to help you. Ensure that the individual is a veterinarian or a certified saddle fitter, and not just a sales representative from a company. If you cannot take your horse with you, making simple tracings are worth the effort. Some tack stores will also allow saddles to be taken on trial for a deposit. |
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Figure 8: Be sure to ask for help from a professional such as a veterinarian or a certified saddle fitter when looking for that perfect saddle! |
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Horses bodies' change over time, just as ours do. You don't wear the same pair of jeans you wore as a 6 year-old, so don't expect that an unadjustable wood or plastic treed saddle will fit you and your horse the rest of your lives. Advances are being made in adjustable gullets and adaptable trees, but both the angle and the tree width must be taken into account. Treeless saddles are also finding popularity, but have their own issues. Be patient! Armed with education and determination you can find something comfortable for you and pain-free for your horse, and have enjoyment for years to come!
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Dr. Robson is a veterinarian dedicated to the Whole Horse Approach, and provides veterinary acupuncture, veterinary chiropractic, and saddle-fitting services and education. She welcomes comments and questions and can be reached via her website at www.InspiritusEquine.com. For more information or articles on saddle fitting, visit the above web address, or www.schleese.com, and www.sustainabledressage.net. |
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Read comments or post your own comments to this article at the bottom of this page. |
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Copyright © 2008 All rights reserved. The above article is the property of the Author and may not be duplicated or redistributed in any way without permission. |
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Reader comments for this article |
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Name: NickerIt Time: 2008-02-19 00:02:01
Comment: Dr. Robson ... thanks for a great article. Regarding the western saddles ... do you have any comments on the flexible tree western saddles? Do they work and/or are they better than traditional stiff western trees?
Name: Joanna Robson, DVM Time: 2008-02-04 14:02:34
Comment: Thank you all for your comments. I would like to respond in addition to the posted comments to further the discussion and information posted.
First, I agree that in "a properly designed western saddle" there is not an issue with pressure on the lumbars and croup, but I caution my western-riding clients to look at the length of their saddles. Many short-backed Quarter horses and Arabians suffer from severe pain at the llumbo-sacral region due to saddles that literally dig into this area with unforgiving leather and pressure. If you are unsure if this is happening, then place your saddle on your horse and use your hands to press down on your horses back under the skirt of the saddle. Look for the back dipping or the horse responding with ears pinned or tail swishing.
Second, thank you for adding the causes of the western saddle pinching over the shoulders. Rider position and improper rigging do play a huge role in saddle pinch. My comment is that in a saddle that already does NOT fit through the tree, a 250lb cowboy in a 55lb roping saddle will maximize the damage to the horse.
Lastly, I have seen way too many English riders place their saddles way too far forward - this is because they are looking at where the girth should go, not where the saddle should sit. Even saddles that fit when in the correct region of the horse might NOT fit if placed on top of the shoulder blades. If the center of balance is too far back, then I agree the rider is in a weaker area of the horse's back. And then there is the problem as mentioned of saddles sitting behind the thoracic vertebrae.
I am very grateful for the comments and additional information for the readers. I hope that this article and discussion has helped the riders and their horses.
Name: David Genadek Time: 2008-02-02 14:02:44
Comment: I found Dr Robson article to be one of the best I have read however, there are some points that should be clarified.
"Their excessive length, and frequently hard skirt leather, puts undue pressure on the horse's lumbar spine and croup."
It is true that this is often the case however in a properly designed western saddle this is not an issue.
"And the added weight of these saddles maximizes their pinching effect if they don't fit correctly through the shoulders."
It is not the weight that causes the issue. It is the the fact that the shape of the tree was not matched to the shape of the horse. In addition it is often a function of an improperly used rigging or it can also be caused by a rider in the Brida position rather than the Jineta position. Both of these issues are clear in the above picture of the show rider.
"Even a saddle that doesn't fit perfectly is a little better placed behind the shoulders where it belongs."
A properly designed tree can be placed forward with no ill effect on the shoulder. That is why we use a rigid tree. Placing a saddle too far back puts the riders weight on weakest part of the back. The problem for the saddle maker is to place the rider as far forward as possible with out interfering with the scapula. The problem to day is that few trees in either western or English are properly designed to work with the reality of equine bio-mechanics. Unfortunately, the sad state of the industry has educated people drawing incorrect conclusions about saddle fitting.
David Genadek
Master Saddlemaker
President About The Horse Inc, AnatoTree Ltd
Name: George K. Dobrev Time: 2008-02-01 12:02:43
Comment: Dr. Robson is very dedicated to her work, horses and clients. She has deep and thorough understanding of western medicine along with excellent theoretical and practical knowledge of equine acupuncture, chiropractic and saddle fitting. Her quest for excellence has allowed her to study with top masters – farriers, saddle makers and Chinese equine acupuncturists. I would highly recommend Dr. Robson to all who need help with their horses and want to learn more about her areas of expertise.
Name: Averil Cox Time: 2008-02-01 04:02:24
Comment: This is a brilliant article. Now get the saddle designers to read it!
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